A Balkans Odyssey
The sun slowly emerges from behind the vast face of rock that forms one side of the imperious canyon that we find ourselves in. With it comes a welcome warmth, the hitherto frigid morning air gradually rising in temperature as the sun ascends ever higher towards what will be its eventual zenith in the brilliant blue sky.
From below comes the perpetual roll and rumble of the river, whose waters have, over countless years, carved out Tara Canyon, Europe’s deepest at over 1300 metres in some places. With the emerging sun comes signs of life on our campsite, built over two levels on what land there is to be found here at the bottom of the canyon, as soft chatter and the alluring aroma of freshly brewed coffee begins to fill the air.
We are in Montenegro, although only just as here the river marks the border with neighbouring Bosnia & Herzegovina, on the edge of Durmitor National Park, a region whose natural beauty is quick to win not just my heart, but those of my travelling companions too. The most impressive views of the canyon are from above, where one can see the turquoise waters of the river snaking their way through a green oasis of thickly wooded precipitous cliffs, home to rare, primaeval black pine forests.
The beauty of the landscape is reason enough to venture to this remote corner of a country that is, by modern standards, relatively undeveloped, with great swathes of land as nature intended them to be. Although, as we will discover with some delight in the coming days, there is far more to Durmitor National Park than its imperious canyon. But for now the focus is on the river, where we will spend the morning rafting.
At this time of year, it’s mid-September, the rapids are not particularly violent, graded as level two plus, and so over the course of the fourteen kilometres there are periods where we can relax, paddle gently and admire the canyon from a different perspective. Autumn’s gentle hand has already begun to touch the landscape, little pockets of rusty brown shrubs and trees with teardrop leaves the colour of caramel contrast with the verdant greens of the forest we float alongside.
‘All paddle’ comes the urgent command from Jacko, our vigilant guide. Ahead the river froths and erupts in plumes of white, a thunderous roar filling the air. We set to our task, carrying the raft quickly towards the start of the rapids before we are swept into them tossed this way and that. The front of the raft rises up, the horizon suddenly filled with the calm blue of the sky before slamming back down again, cold water showering those sat at the front, much to the delight of those further back.
“Travel has been a revelation to me.” - Jane
“When we bought this van it was to be used, that was why we spent the money on it, to be able to see the world. For me it’s about learning, exploration and having fun.” - Peter
“There’s a certain type of person that buys these vehicles. They’ve got to want to travel; they’ve got to have a sense of adventure about them.” - Jayne
The great contrast of Durmitor comes the following day as we head up from the canyon and take the thin ribbon of road that meanders through the heart of the mountains. The road gradually rises, picking its way up and through great slabs of rock long since jettisoned from the mountains that tower over us on either side, until without warning it arrives at a point where we are forced to stop. Not because the road is blocked, but because the sheer scale and brilliance of the mountains requires it of us.
We stand lost in reverence, for the landscape we find ourselves in is surrounded by mountains that appear to have violently wrestled themselves free from the depths of earth, jutting high into the sky. We will travel no further, instead opting to wild camp in the bosom of the mountains, the spell of Durmitor well and truly cast upon us. Night brings yet more magic, an ink-black sky carpeted with stars, wisps of the Milky Way and the crackle of our campfire providing the perfect end to a day few will ever forget.
Reflections from our 2024 Balkans Adventure
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